When I teach dovetails I like to mention the Stanley 140 trick because I like how it gives the inside of the case a more finished look plus it's a nice way to establish the edge. However, I don't have a set of skewed, rabbet block planes nor do I have the $400.00+ to buy Lie-Nielsens beautiful pair. So, where does that leave me? One way I've accomplished this technique is to use a rip blade on the tablesaw and cut a small slice off the end of the board being dovetailed. This certainly works but I always hesitate showing this because it probably isn't the safest way to go about it. Holding the piece on end against the fence to remove an eighth of an inch or so is probably not OSHA approved. It could be safer if you used a tenoning type jig that would straddle the fence. Another downside is that you probably keep a combination blade in your saw which won't cut a flat shoulder so you'd need to change the blade anyway.
I thought of two different methods to modify the Stanley 140 trick without having the skewed set of planes. They both start out with marking the length of the tail on both ends of the board. This piece is the center one and three inches wide.
|Scribing the End of the Board|
|Cutting Shoulder Line|
|One End, Sawn|
What I did to the other side was to use a chisel to remove the material almost to the scribed line. Not sure which method is preferred but you can experiment with both and see what suits you. I think the grain structure and type of wood you're using could determine your choice.
To flatten the cut and make it uniform was be done by taking the small router plane and setting it to the required depth, 1/8" in this instance.
|Setting the Router Plane|
|Refining the Cut|
The only slight drawback is that the router plane dug into the shoulder a bit but a chisel remedied that.