I'm working on the Star Jasmine table, a speculation piece in progress; between visits to the eye doctor plus finishing up a commissioned box. My eyes got pretty funky as a side effect of a medication the doctor prescribed, not taking that anymore but the eyes haven't improved. The only good thing about that is it could be a valid excuse for mistakes!
The 16 1/2" width is probably narrow enough to not need a breadboard but I like to use it to conceal the end grain. Breadboards require multiple steps to make and can get kind of complicated. The first step is to cut the full length tongue on both ends of the table top. This one is 1 3/16" long and will be housed in a 1 1/4" slot. It's tricky sometimes to get the top and bottom edges lined up exactly when using a router but making this sleeve like guide works well.
|Router Guide for Cutting Tongue|
|Ready for the Slot|
|Depth Stop with Block|
In a way, I feel as if I'm burning the candle at both ends and working to get to the middle. I haven't planed the tabletop to its finished size and the thickness of the breadboard end pieces are thicker and longer than needed to! First step was to semi finish off the table top. For the top surface I'm using a smooth plane.
|Smooth Plane for Top|
|Stanley #80 Does the Trick|
To see the tongue lay-out on the breadboard end I love this Frog brand green tape, really lets you see the lines to cut to, especially helpful with my current eye problem!
|Tongue Lay-Out on Breadboard|
You probably notice that the breadboard end is longer than the table is wide. Those chalk marks on it are the approximate length but I intend to cut an ellipse on the table after the ends are attached. Found out too that having them extend makes it easier to fit, they're like handles to pull it off with.
|Coping Saw for Centers|
The outer sections were removed with a dovetail saw then pared flush as needed. The inner section was removed with a coping saw. Then began the trial and error phase of individually fitting each of the ends.